Driving east bound on NH9 takes one to the India Nepal interface at Banabasa. No one would have made it out if not made so obvious by the border patrol.
This road leads across the Sarda Barrage right into another country.
The eastbound highway goes through ‘nudals and chilli paneer’ land. A side of idli is thrown in at the Shiva Dhabas and Moga Dhaba s.
The traveler carries on through toll roads and fast tag scanners – paying a hefty toll. Skirting cities and townships.
The cities – Rampur, Moradabad and so on are given a miss. The sight and sound of a city is bypassed in favor of driving on smooth hassle free roads. All a sign of progress of modern India?
One wonders if the journey is worth it without the unruly traffic of disorganized townships and its residents.
Is it only a smooth ride to the destination that matters ?
Do the residents of such townships feel deserted and lonely- on being bypassed unceremoniously?
Rudrapur brings forth a cross road- one can go North to Kathgodam and beyond or to the East to Tanakpur and Nepal . A left turn would lead him to Kashipur and the forests of Jim Corbett
Resting nests are a plenty at the prosperous town of Rudrapur- a Radisson, a Sobti International and many others.
Wanderlust keeps pushing the wanderer through jungles.
The recliner is inviting yet declined.
So is the invite from the village drunkard to share the warmth of a fire.
Nothing is as luring as unkempt mountain roads.
Last rays of the sun glances on a lonely leaf- ominous and foreboding- for the traveler has reached the reportedly haunted lawns of Mount Abbott in Lohaghat.
Built a century back – the remnants of the church and graveyard and the stories of tormented spirits – hang thick on the travelers mind.
KMVN Mount Abbott was more concerned about prowling leopards than ghosts- with the customary rest house mutt working overtime as a guard dog.
Sunrises are reassuring- a night passed without being hunted by spirits or leopards
The hallowed grounds of Mayavati – brought one’s awareness to the separate existence of the soul (atman), the body and the mind.
Yet the prosaic world kept up the pretense of action – in the cow palace and the gardens.
The oranges need the ashramites’ protection from the perils of the world
The building where Swami resided remains out of bound for the mobile camera.
The ‘reel hunters’ prowl at the gates
What does one do at Lohaghat ?
Tumbles around a man made lake
Or soaks it up..
The restaurant draws the traveler inside
and there are few glitzy ones nearby.
As night draws close – its back to the security of the rest house.
Mornings are made by the curious and hungry avians
Some refuse to be captured through the lens- turning back with disdain for the flightless
To gaze at them – is that not better than wracking up brains trying to name them?
The gazebo provides solitude to the weary and burdened.
But the journey needs to continue… what else can the traveler do- for it is the destiny of the traveler to travel on winding roads.
For the planner
To reach Lohaghat – travel North of Tanakpur – the hills start – well maintained roads beyond the rainy season. Shared taxis and buses rumble on with nauseous passengers.
72 km up lies Champawat – with malls and traps of a city
another 20 odd Km to reach Lohaghat- KMVN accommodation is decent- to be booked online.
Refueling – pumps a plenty at Champawat and some in Lohaghat.
Mayavati ashram – 10 km from the centre of Lohaghat
Banasur fort – trekking – light to moderate hour’s trek close to Lohaghat.
Taxi Association Lohaghat for taxi – clear communication is essential to avoid excessive demands of taxi operators.
Many skip Lohaghat for the more popular Pithoragarh and Munsiyari; using it as a stopover. Yet Lohahat has its own spirit, waiting to be savored.
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