Why Kashmir?
Autumn through its associated romantic constructs has always held a magnetic attraction for mortals.
Autumn signifies change, a metamorphosis that involves hardship and endurance to finally evolve into spring.
The changing foliage, brown rusty leaves in place of the accustomed green offer an element of surprise to the mortal eye- as if something unexpected is happening.
Three failed attempts over three successive years and finally we landed in Srinagar in the first week of November to experience autumn.
Reflections
Prosaic
Early November is the time for viewing autumn foliage, this changes every year.
Chinar dense locations in Srinagar are best-
Naseem Bagh – university campus https://maps.app.goo.gl/o8Acvty6e8keatTB6 (not the park by the Dal that cabbies try to sell unsuspecting tourists)
Nishat gardens
The inner view
One experience that stands out in Kashmir- been there twice- is the all pervasive feeling that I, the tourist is the product- the commodity for local business to thrive upon. Everywhere and everyone is out make a quick buck from the tourist.
Kangris being sold at roadside shops, the rush to store essential supplies- autumn could be felt in human activities as well.
Starting with the last day of this visit
Monday- first week of November
Late risers as usual. The breakfast buffet was widespread, but it catered to pan Indian tastes with dosa and puri. These options are not true to the locale. The chef’s opinion is that there’s nothing called breakfast in Kashmiri cuisine. So, local savouries are not part of the fare.
While everyone set off for shopping, we visited Gulshan books.
https://maps.app.goo.gl/CjYezetf1r7tyGRu7
It is a popular book store in Srinagar. Like Oxford in Calcutta or Bahrisons of Delhi.
They have an impressive array of sociopolitical literature pertaining to the region.
Our visit coincided with that of a dance director creating a music video in the store. Making reels is a ‘life essential’ human activity- and the video crew did the same.
All in a book store!!
For lunch we skipped the famous Adhoos for Tibetan Bowl (https://maps.app.goo.gl/pCKDGpdLCfAkp4Lk8)- cozy, clean eating joint located opposite- familiar Chinese and Tibetan food.
Shopping remained unfinished because we hurried to the airport.
Through the hustle and bustle of a busy city that learnt to live with omnipresent security.
The rush was mainly to allay anxiety of missing the flight.
The airport has a two-layered security system.
First, all luggage must be removed from the car, scanned, and returned. At a site around a mile from the airport. There are helpers who charge a decent fee for this activity.
Hence, extra time must be kept in allowance for departing flights.
The cabal is at work at the airport as well. The cabbie stops at a spot where only helpers with trolleys are present- ample self service trolleys lie out of view in an adjacent lane.
[The self service trolleys are here – https://maps.app.goo.gl/S7BufHPPyHS6QDAt6]
The evening sky and the mountains compensated for a lack lustre flight back home.
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