Kashmir – An Autumnal Closure
Kashmir in autumn leaves more than memories of golden Chinar leaves. It leaves lessons on travel, people, patience and looking beyond the obvious.
The Tourist Is the Commodity
The tourist is the commodity.
Autumn in Srinagar has always held an attraction for our urban minds.
Three attempts and, after many discussions and consultations with locals, we finally made it through.
The meticulous wanderer can time the visit to witness the Chinar trees and their leaves at their brown best.
This is usually between the end of October and mid-November.
Why Aru Valley Became Part of the Journey
We initially planned a Srinagar-only visit.
The plan changed to include Aru Valley.
Our restless brains perceived three continuous days in Srinagar as boring.
The Journey from Srinagar Airport
Srinagar Airport is different from the rest.
Let’s leave it at that.
The drive from the airport towards Aru Valley passes through the famous Pampore saffron fields.
Many people were harvesting saffron flowers, as our visit coincided with the harvest season.
Our request to stop was politely refused by the chauffeur, who cited an approaching army convoy.
We later discovered that this was another fabrication imposed upon tourists.
A Mandatory Stop for Saffron
As is often the norm, the vehicle stopped at a Kesar shop chosen by the cab driver.
It gave me the opportunity to wander around the locality, where roadside stalls sold tea and fragrant Kahwa.
Lunch by the Jhelum
We insisted on stopping at Apple Restaurant, Sangam, located beside the Jhelum River.
Location:
https://maps.app.goo.gl/Woyh9Qk3KF5J1pud7
Much to the disappointment of our cab driver, who had preferred another stop.
The restaurant was filled with local diners—a reassuring sign of fresh food.
Steaming rice, saag and lightly flavoured chicken appeared to be the favourite meal.
The restaurant stands at the junction of the highway and Khiram–Marhama Road, surrounded by barbed-wire security.
A brief conversation with the sentry reminded us that everything around us was not quite as peaceful as it appeared.
Arriving in Aru Valley
The road from Pahalgam to Aru requires tourists to pay an entry toll.
It is, however, a delightful drive.
The surrounding mountain vistas have an immediate calming effect.
Aru is a village.
A JKTDC Rest House exists there.
However, Milky Way appeared to us to be the best place to stay.
Visitors leave their shoes at the entrance—a common practice in Kashmir where carpeted floors are the norm.
The village is peaceful.
It deserves much more than the single hour that most visitors spend there.
Village Life
The influence of pan-Indian tourism has slowly found its way into Aru Valley.
The villagers continued with their daily routines.
We met a pet ram possessing an abundance of aura.
And an old shop, run by an equally elderly gentleman whose indifference reflected someone who had seen everything life had to offer.
Valley, Sky and Silence
The valley, as valleys go, is surrounded by mountains in every direction.
The star-filled sky is always a delight for city dwellers.
A night walk through Aru village felt carefree and remarkably safe.
Most residents retired early, leaving the streets quiet and empty.
Photo: Birds of the valley.
Photo: The hues that drew us to Kashmir.
Photo: Many hues of autumn.
Final Reflections
The trip left us wishing for more of the valley.
More of the vistas.
And the realisation that smiling at locals can make the experience infinitely more delightful.
And another reminder to double-check the stories told by cab drivers during future journeys.
And to step away from the worn-out tourist tracks.
And to…
