Kashmir – An Autumnal Sunday
Kashmir in autumn reveals itself slowly—through majestic Chinar trees, bustling shrines, quiet lakefronts and memorable meals. This autumn Sunday in Srinagar offered a blend of history, nature, food and the occasional travel lesson.
Photo: Srinagar Old City viewed from Hazrat Maqdoom Sahib (RA).
A Scenic Drive Around Dal Lake
A cooperative chauffeur makes travel enjoyable.
Late risers that we are, Sunday breakfast concluded at 11:00 am with the expected buffet spread.
We drove along Foreshore Road around Dal Lake—less crowded and far more scenic.
Discovering the Real Naseem Bagh
The original Naseem Bagh is located within the University of Kashmir campus and can be accessed through multiple gates, including Budshah Gate.
The cab driver tried to pass off Sheikh Abdullah Memorial Park, located directly opposite Budshah Gate, as Naseem Bagh—one of his many attempts at hoodwinking unsuspecting visitors.
The guards had to be cajoled into letting us in, although others were already walking through. The university campus is accessible to everyone.
The Chinar trees are majestic.
The carpet of fallen leaves and the serenity of the surroundings made time seem to stand still.
Dogs created cozy pits in the leaves.
Humans remained cozy with their mobile phones.
A lazy game of cricket unfolded in one corner.
A quiet bench beneath the Chinars invited lingering.
Time simply flew.
Location:
https://maps.app.goo.gl/TxXe9XNtfxDRx8Pv5
Hazratbal Dargah
The next stop was Hazratbal Dargah.
A holy place with all the trappings of one.
Crowds of alms seekers, shops and food stalls greeted visitors, while the constant honking of traffic created an ambience not very different from many South Asian places of worship.
Pigeons in flight created patterns unbeknownst to themselves.
There were multiple shoe stands, several entry points and a peaceful sanctum where worshippers occasionally cast curious eyes towards us.
Among the interesting local foods on offer were enormous parathas, steamed wheat and preparations made from local seeds.
The adjacent lakefront appeared to be a favourite hangout for locals.
Lunch with a View
Nearby we discovered Kashmir Trout Restaurant, which also serves visitors heading towards the Dargah Maqdoom Sahib Gondola.
https://maps.app.goo.gl/1WSSdnjuTixz6NyV8
The restaurant overlooks Malkah Graveyard, making dining while looking over gravestones a rather unusual experience.
The grilled trout was well prepared.
The trout curry, however, overwhelmed every palate.
What is marketed as Fish and Chips turned out to be our familiar butter fish fry—not exactly the British version.
Although off the main tourist circuit, the restaurant appeared popular among Srinagar residents.
Gondola Ride to Dargah Maqdoom Sahib
The cable car ride to Dargah Maqdoom Sahib offered a bird’s-eye view of Srinagar’s Old City through a gentle autumn haze.
It also provided a fascinating glimpse into one of the city’s important places of worship.
Last gondola ride: 4:00 pm.
Char Chinar at Dusk
Next on the agenda was Char Chinar.
As expected, the cab driver dropped us at Gate No. 18, insisting that no Shikaras operated further down Boulevard Road.
A short walk proved otherwise.
We hired a Shikara from Gate No. 19, directly opposite the parking area.
Shikara stands actually continue up to Gate No. 25.
The usual bargaining followed, reducing the fare by almost 40%.
By dusk, the ride had become wonderfully relaxing.
Char Chinar itself was peaceful.
One could easily imagine spending much longer there.
Two of the Chinar trees have been pruned, leaving the island’s famous symmetry incomplete until nature restores it.
A Small Tourist Trap
Char Chinar has a portable toilet charging ₹20 per visit.
It remains carefully hidden.
The caretaker appears only after visitors have finished, confidently claiming the fee.
Sneaky.
Ending the Day with Food
The long day concluded with roadside kebabs at Khayam Chowk.
The smaller restaurants seemed better.
The famous Tujj Kebab certainly deserves its reputation.
For dessert, we stopped at D Café, a local ice cream shop producing its own ice creams at a family-owned plant.
Honey and fig appeared to be one of Srinagar’s favourite flavours.
Location:
https://maps.app.goo.gl/tmEhVyojGxCsp3bY7
Final Thoughts
The day ended exactly as every long day in the mountains should.
A sprint back to the comfort of a soft bed.
And immediate slumber.
