Kashmir – An Autumnal Snapshot
Kashmir in autumn has always held a magnetic attraction for travellers.
Autumn, through its associated romantic constructs, signifies change—a metamorphosis involving hardship and endurance before finally evolving into spring.
The changing foliage, brown rusty leaves replacing the accustomed green, offers an element of surprise to the mortal eye—as if something unexpected is happening.
Three failed attempts over three successive years, and finally we landed in Srinagar in the first week of November to experience autumn.
Reflections on Kashmir in Autumn
Photo: Reflections.
Photo: Prosaic.
Early November is generally the best time for viewing autumn foliage in Kashmir, although the colours vary slightly every year.
For visitors wanting to experience the magnificent Chinar trees, the following locations in Srinagar stand out.
Best Places to Experience Autumn in Srinagar
Naseem Bagh – University Campus
https://maps.app.goo.gl/o8Acvty6e8keatTB6
(Not the park near Dal Lake that cab drivers often recommend to unsuspecting tourists.)
Nishat Garden
Photo: The inner view.
The Tourist Experience
One experience that continues to stand out during visits to Kashmir—I have been there twice—is the pervasive feeling that I, the tourist, am the product.
The commodity around which local businesses thrive.
Everywhere, and almost everyone, seems eager to make a quick buck from the visitor.
Kangris being sold at roadside shops and the rush to stock essential supplies reminded us that autumn could be felt not only in nature but also in everyday human activity.
The Last Day in Srinagar
Monday – First Week of November
Late risers, as usual.
The breakfast buffet was widespread, catering largely to pan-Indian tastes with dosa and puri.
These options hardly reflected local cuisine.
The chef’s opinion was that there is no traditional breakfast culture in Kashmiri cuisine, and therefore local savouries did not form part of the menu.
A Visit to Gulshan Books
While everyone else headed out for shopping, we visited Gulshan Books.
https://maps.app.goo.gl/CjYezetf1r7tyGRu7
It remains one of the most popular bookstores in Srinagar, much like Oxford Bookstore in Kolkata or Bahrisons Booksellers in Delhi.
Its shelves contain an impressive collection of socio-political literature relating to Kashmir.
Our visit coincided with that of a dance director shooting a music video inside the bookstore.
Making reels has evidently become an essential human activity.
And the crew was doing exactly that.
All inside a bookstore!
Lunch at Tibetan Bowl
For lunch, we skipped the famous Ahdoos and instead chose Tibetan Bowl.
https://maps.app.goo.gl/pCKDGpdLCfAkp4Lk8
Located opposite Ahdoos, it is a cosy and clean restaurant serving familiar Chinese and Tibetan cuisine.
Leaving Srinagar
Shopping remained unfinished because we hurried towards the airport.
Through the hustle and bustle of a busy city that has learnt to live with omnipresent security.
The rush was driven mainly by the anxiety of missing the flight.
The airport follows a two-layered security system.
First, all luggage must be removed from the vehicle, scanned and then reloaded at a checkpoint nearly a mile before the airport.
Helpers are available to assist—for a fee.
Visitors should therefore allow additional time before departure.
Airport Tips for Travellers
The cabal appears to operate at the airport as well.
Taxi drivers often stop at a point where only paid helpers with trolleys are available.
Plenty of free self-service trolleys remain hidden in an adjacent lane.
Location of the free self-service trolleys:
